Homesteading with Sue Robishaw and Steve Schmeck

Notes from the Northwoods ~ by Sue Robishaw

Window Quilts

updated

Thoughts, information, experiences, ideas from more than thirty years of homesteading.

(This article first appeared in the Nov/Dec 1993 issue of "Countryside" magazine; reprinted and updated in the Nov/Dec 2002 issue.)

    Windows in a home are important. They invite in the Sun with her light and her heat. And in the winter we crave both. But at night, or on cold gray days, those windows don't seem so friendly. They draw out our precious heat, and light, too. But we can come to a compromise and lend the windows a friendly, warm hand by making and installing window quilts. Not just for winter though, they can be equally as useful in the summer to keep out a hot summer sun.
    Over the years, and many window quilts later, I've learned that a winter window covering needs to be easy to use, both going up and coming down. It needs to be cheery when in place (light colors help) and inexpensive to make.
    For most of our window quilts I used old white cotton sheets for the backs (or outsides). We had quite a few around and they turned out to be a good choice. The white allows more light in when the curtains are down on those subzero, but sunny, days. A layer of batting comes next, then the top (or inside). I prefer natural materials, and used cotton batting for the early window quilts. Which worked fine -- until I washed them. Turns out cotton batting (the old style) is fine if the quilt is tied or quilted on a fine grid. But with only one tie every four inches, the cotton batting separated after being washed leaving sparse areas alternating with clumpy spots.

    Some years later, after a reprint of the original article appeared in "Countryside" magazine, a quilter wrote to tell me of a new thin cotton batting that is made in such a way that it needs only to be tied every 10" to stay together. I easily found the material at our local "dime" store, and at nearby fabric stores. It was available in unbleached cotton which as nice (maybe someday an organically grown option will be as readily available!). I took all my window quilts down (it was time to wash them anyway) and added another layer of this sheet batting thus making a much better insulating curtain than I had before. It has gone through many washings since and is still holding its shape.

    The top or inside material can be as creative as you and your schedule allow. Material scraps and worn-out clothing made this part of my original window quilt making a real "homemade" affair. I was in a hurry to get the quilts on the windows so I'm afraid I didn't strain my creativity much. I made a cardboard template, sat down with a pencil and scissors and cut out a million or so 4" squares out of whatever material was available. Well, maybe only a half a million, but it seemed like more. I then sewed them together into a size to fit generously into, or in front of, our window frames. When you tie the quilt it will "shrink" some so make it on the large size. You want them to cozy up tight to your window frames to keep the drafts out, or in. It's also good to make them long enough that the bottom can lay on the sill, creating a good seal.

    After these curtains were up, I discovered that sticking to light colors or white would have been better. But we lived just fine for many years with the colors and patterns I had originally made (see graphics at top of page). Winter in the short-day north just doesn't need dark, subtler shades so later, when I added the new layer of sheet batting, I covered the colorful quilts with plain white material which, though not as splashy, suits us much better. Yet when the light shines through when we have them down during the day, the old colorful quilt tops glow through with subtle color, rather like stained glass.

    After sewing the top together tie the quilt about every four to ten inches, depending on the batting you've used, then hem the edges. Staple and tack two thin boards to the bottom of the quilt, on either side of the material. Make these a little shorter than your window is wide so they don't jamb between the frame. You'll need another small board to attach the top of the quilt to your window frame. In addition, you need cording such as venetian blind or sash cording. Regular string tends to ravel and break. Two small pulleys and several large fencing type staples are also required. And you will need something to wrap your cord around to keep the curtain rolled open. A nail will work but a small dowel is nicer.

After many years of taking the curtains down, un-nailing, un-stapling, then re-nailing and re-stapling I decided this year (2008) that there had to be an easier way. There is, of course, and it wasn't even that hard to figure out (with one of those huffy "now why didn't I think of that before" impatient snorts). Simply sew an open hem top and bottom and slide in your dowel or stick. Drill holes in the top stick for attaching screws. Easy up, easy down, simply slide the sticks/dowels out, then back in when ready to reinstall. I have found that it works best if the hem is sized fairly snuggly to the stick so it can't rotate around. Just don't make it so tight you can't slip the stick in and out.

A little creative adjustment may have to be done around your window frames to make these curtains work well. The pulleys need to hang above or on the room side of the curtain. Ideally the curtains are attached far enough above the window that they don't block the view when rolled up (either flat in the same plane or above if the window is inset. Follow the drawing to see how to string the cording. It is easier done than said I think. A knot or large bead in the end of the cord will keep it from pulling through the pulley. You can tie the ends together but if you have a lively cat in the house you may want to keep them separate to prevent the feline from hanging his or herself on the cord. One of our cats could care less about such things as dangling cords, the other couldn't ignore it if she tried. Which she doesn't of course.

We originally used sash cord, which worked well. But it did wear out over time and when it came time to replace it this year, we couldn't find any. There isn't a lot of call for sash cord anymore I guess, or venetian blind cord. We did finally find some woven cord in the local hardware that works, though it is a bit bulkier.

    Another technique I've used for inexpensive window insulation in our greenhouse is a rigid insulated panel. Make a frame of 3/4" or 1" x 1" wood to fit inside your window opening (or against it). Cut a piece of rigid foam to fit within the frame. Cut two pieces of polyethylene plastic for either side. Staple to the frame. I used regular wood glue between the frame and plastic as a sort of caulking or sealant. The plastic keeps the rigid foam from outgassing into the room. Important on sunny days when you aren't there to take the panels down.
    Cut two pieces of large cardboard to go on either side of the panel. Staple it on. It helps to hammer the cardboard flat around the edges first. Tack on small boards (3/4" x 1/8" or so) over the staples. Paint the panels well with an oil paint (it will take several coats). A light color (white would be best) is recommended to reflect the light and heat, both in and out.
    How you keep the panels up depends on your window frame and sills. I've used both simple toggles and small elastic bungee cording, as well as simple friction fit. You have to find a place to store the panels when they're down, but they are more moisture resistant than the window quilts, and have a higher insulating value. I do use fabric window quilts on the sloped overhead glass, and they do OK but are prone to damp and mildew spots.

Window insulation is an easy and inexpensive way to cut down your winter energy use and keep your dwelling cozier, as well as brighter. It can be fun and creative too!